Insights & News

What Happened to the Crop?

By now it's no secret – the California olive industry will get around 24,000 tons, and this was supposed to be our big year. So what happened?

Lots of Theories

There are a number of theories as to why we had a disastrous year – lack of water, wrong weather at the wrong time. No one is 100% certain and the truth is it's probably a combination of several factors.

One theory is the extended drought conditions we've had over the last few years and the lack of adequate irrigation. The lack of water has led to very dry soil conditions, particularly as you reach deeper soil levels.

"We saw a few soil samples where the top foot of soil was wet," said Gene Welch, Bell-Carter's Southern Field Manager. "However, once we got below this level, the ground was bone-dry."

Keith Backman, a consultant for Dellavalle Laboratories, Inc. located in Fresno, sheds some light on what happens to the olive tree after extended drought conditions. "If the ground dries out too much, the olive tree will jettison the leaves, basically sending a signal to the tree to stay alive," says Backman. "Leaves start falling off to conserve energy and fruit bearing is diminished."

Backman says we might want to change the way we view the olive tree. "Some people think the olive tree is like a cactus—it doesn't need a lot of water to survive. That's true; however, surviving is all the tree will be able to do. Without enough water, the tree will have trouble pollinating and bearing fruit."

Another theory as to the short crop was the weather. Cody McCoy, Bell-Carter's Northern Field Manager notes, "Temperatures in January were over 70 degrees for more than a week which may have encouraged the trees to push buds which would have left them susceptible to damage from subsequent frost events and cold temperatures."

Backman notes that frost by itself isn't necessarily an issue. "However, when a tree hasn't had enough water in November, December and January, the trees become much more susceptible to frost than they would have had they had enough water," says Backman.

Bill Krueger, Extension Advisor for Glenn and Tehama Counties, agrees. "Don't let your soil get dried out. If we don't get normal rainfall, start watering." And what happens if we have a frost during a critical stage? Krueger recommends frost protection. "If you expect a hard frost, the best thing you can do is irrigate. This is a very common practice with almonds. As the water cools down on your groves, it gives off heat. And as it turns to ice, it gives off more heat. With micro-sprinklers you can raise the soil temperature 3-4 degrees and with flood irrigation you can raise it 1-2 degrees, hopefully protecting the tree through the frost."

In May during bloom, some areas saw a dry northerly wind and very hot weather hitting triple digits potentially limiting fertilization of the flowers and adding to the poor fruit yield. Krueger noted some similarities to the short crop in 2006. "In 2006, up North we had unseasonably warm weather in February and then temperatures plummeted to 25 degrees. A lot of flower buds were killed. In 2009 warm temperatures in January were followed by a frost of 25 degrees. We also saw 100 degree weather during bloom. This hot weather coupled with reduced pollen may have been a contributing factor."

"In the South," notes Welch, "we didn't see the same temperature fluctuations as the North saw. One general theory certainly can't explain the issues across the state."

Now What?

So what can we do to help insure we have a good crop next year? Make sure you irrigate if rainfall is below normal for November, December and January. "I tell growers, if it's not wet by Thanksgiving, start irrigating," says Backman. "Without the water, it will be harder for the trees to withstand a frost, potentially resulting in another year for poor fruit yield." Without enough water and water deep in the soil, the trees won't have the energy needed to produce fruit.

To figure out how much to irrigate, you might want to take a soil sample. Dellavalle Laboratories found one area in the South where it was wet six inches down but dust below that level. "In this example, it might mean six weeks of watering versus one week," says Backman.

You also might want to contact your Local Small Business Administration's (SBA) Disaster Field Operations Center. It was reported in the Orland Press Register on October 9, 2009 that "Alfred E. Judd, director of the SBA's Disaster Field Operations Center West, announced non-farm businesses in certain counties — including Tehama, Glenn and Colusa — could apply for low-interest disaster loans from the SBA for reduced revenue which occurred as a result of high temperatures between May 15, 2009 through May 31, 2009."

And for next year, make sure you apply for Crop Disaster Assistance before December 15, 2009. On the backside of this newsletter, you'll find some information on how to do that.

So what about next year? Will it be a good year?

All the signs currently point to what looks like a good crop next year, provided the weather cooperates and growers continue to practice good agricultural practices. "The trees have a lot of shoot growth. I can't see any reason right now why next year shouldn't be a big crop year," says Krueger. "The only exception to this might be the few growers who had a decent crop this year – they may be a little lighter than the growers who had a terrible crop this year."

Welch reminds everyone of the basics. "Make sure you're following good agricultural practices. Fertilize in February, June and post-harvest – 1/3 a pound each time." McCoy adds, "Keep the soil moist deep down and prune regularly. Do what you can to personally help control and offset the uncontrollable – Mother Nature."